Monday, August 31, 2015

REVIEW: Joyetech eVic VT 60 Watt Temperature Control Kit

Freaking beautiful! That's the best way to describe the finish on this mod and tank combo. The display is big and beautiful with a lot of information. The paint job is thick, automobile quality with a light metal flake mixed in with the color (I could camouflage my mod by putting on the hood of a Mustang GT that I see around town - the color is that close). The tank exactly matches the mod. The control dial is reminiscent of a vintage auto gas cap. It's even contoured on each side to suggest an air induction hood such as those on the old Trans Ams. All of the corners are nice, too - there's not a rough spot to be found when I'm holding it. the button is very smooth and clicky, and the control knob is springy and simple.

The Joyetech eVic VT is a box mod. The VT stands for Variable Temperature. Inside, there is a 5000 mAh and a chip that regulates output from 1 to 60 watts in power mode, or from 30 to 60 watts in temperature control mode. The temperature control mode has two sub-settings - Ti and Ni. Yep, this device handles titanium wires as well as nickel wire right out of the box. No upgrades or additions to download or purchase. Only the tiniest bit of fiddling around to change from one mode to another.

And, it does temperature control quite well, is a little cool. But, that's an easy adjustment.

In the box that I purchased on pre-order, there was a slick yellow-orange box mod with a nice set of racing stripes on the contoured sides, a decent matching tank with large viewports that holds 4 ml and offers adjustable airflow, a wall wart, a USB cable for charging, a silicone sleeve, a thicker than average manual, and two coils. One Ni200 coil that reads in at 0.2 Ohms, and one Ti coil that reads in at 0.4 Ohms (there are also CL 0.5 and CL 1.0 and CLR heads available, but not included). Everything you need except the e-liquid. The mod was even reading a full charge as I pulled it from the box!

If you're the type that likes and used silicone sleeves on your mods, I recommend you get the white device. The silicone sleeve that comes with the kit is translucent and mutes the color of the mod - except white - and, in my opinion, ruins the look.

The menu system takes a little getting used to, but is actually a bit easier than some other mods. Instead of a couple of up and down buttons, there's a thumb-wheel on top that pivots to the left or right and snaps back to the center after each adjustment. There is also a fire button on the side above the display. A normal five clicks will turn the device on or off. When in power mode, the wheel adjust wattage up or down in .1 watt increments and will accelerate quite a bit if held. When in Ni or TI temperature control mode, it controls the temperature, increasing or decreasing in either 10-degree Fahrenheit increments of 5-degree Celsuis increments. To delve deeper into the menu and set the modes, three rapid clicks on the power button takes you there. Once there, flicking the control wheel to the left changes menu items. Flicking to the right changes the item particulars such as mode (Power, Temp Ni, or Temp Ti), the power while in temp mode (30 to 60 watts), and the battery display/puff/time counter. Pressing the fire button when adjusting anything will commit those changes and return to the regular operating screen. Pressing the fire button when in the puff counter or time option resets those two items to 00000. When I just reset my device while writing this review, I was at 10864 seconds and 2804 puffs. Finally, the display, when in power mode, power replaces temperature, and voltage replaces wattage.

The only thing I can find that I do not like about the menu system is the adjustment of power when in temp control. Because the dial is turned to the left to change menu items, the power can only be adjusted up. If you miss your mark, you have to round robin from the bottom - which in temperature control mode is only 30 watts - to your preferred wattage again.

According to PBusardo, the temperatures are a little low in Ni mode and even lower in Ti mode. He also noted, after a several comments elsewhere, that the device sends out a 30 watt pulse when powering on or changing atomizers. The low temps are not problem... increase your temps. The pulse, on the other hand, can affect people with higher ohm coils. If you're vaping on a 2.1 Ohm coil, that pulse can damage your coil and wicking. If you're normally vaping on coils below 1 Ohm, the wattage surge should not cause any problems. Additionally, there was a flap over the batteries being rated incorrectly. The flap was much ado over nothing and Mr. Busardo was able to demonstrate the batteries actually had a bit more capacity - not less - than advertised. There was also a report of the device dropping out of temperature control mode and into power mode on its own, without warning, creating an unpleasant vape. I have not had this experience.

However, that was with version 1.18 of the firmware. Firmware that Joyetech said was not going to be changed. Firmware that the user could not upgrade. Firmware that Joyetech has since upgraded and subsequently removed the users' ability to check (by clicking the power button 20 times from a powered off condition). If I sound a little perturbed by this turn of events, it's because I am.

But operation aside - which is 99% good - this is a solid mod. By solid I mean not only functional, but weighty.

The tank that comes with the full kit is the eGo ONE Mega. Some have said that the tank whistles, and that the draw is too tight. I find that the draw, when wide open, is good for a comfortable lung hit. When shut down, it works for mouth to lung nicely. That said, it's not as airy as the Atlantis. It's not as noisy as the Atlantis, either. I don't have a problem with it. In fact I like it a lot and frequently recommend it as a great tank to start with.

The stock CL, CL-Ti (with red o-rings) and CL-Ni (with blue o-rings) coil heads, on the other hand, are not all that they could be. The e-liquid ports are quite small and do not keep up with higher VG liquids or chain vaping. This is not a real problem if you don't mind building a little bit. And, I do mean a little bit. The CLR (the R stands for rebuildable) are the very model of easy! Here are the steps for cleaning or coiling:

  1. Remove the tank
  2. Unscrew the top ring of the coil head
  3. Gently remove the wick with a pair of tweezers
  4. Clean the coils
    1. If using Kanthal coils, pulse until it glows dull red, allow to cool, and brush clean with a soft brush (I use an old toothbrush)
    2. If using a Titanium coil DO NOT PULSE but brush with a soft brush
    3. If using a Nickel coil, I do not recommend cleaning
  5. Tuck in a new piece of wick - either organic cotton or rayon
  6. Prime the coil
  7. Replace the top ring of the coil head
  8. Screw tank back on the base
  9. Vape
To completely rebuild:
  1. Remove the tank
  2. Remove the coil head
  3. Unscrew the top
  4. Pull out the bottom
  5. Gently pop out the grommet
  6. Pop out the coil, wick and all, and discard
  7. Wrap your wire around a 2 mm screwdriver 5 times ending with both ends pointing down
    • Use 26 gauge Kanthal for approximately 0.5 Ohms
    • Use 29 gauge Kanthal for approximately 1.0 Ohms
    • Use 32 gauge Ni200 for approximately 0.15 Ohms
    • Use 30 gauge Ti #1 for approximately 0.4 Ohms
  8. Clip the ends so that there is about 5 mm of wire on one side and 8 mm of wire on the other
  9. Pull both ends of the wire apart just a little to stretch it out
  10. Push the wire against the handle of the screwdriver to compress it (you want the space between the wraps to be equal)
  11. Place the screwdriver in the slot, threading the two ends through the coil head and out the base
  12. With the screwdriver held in place, invert the coil head and bend the shorter end over the threads - there is a small groove in the base to use as a guide
  13. Slip the grommet over the other end and gently press into place
  14. Push the pin into place. There is a slot on one side of the pin that the wire will fit in better
  15. Trim both ends as close to the coil head as possible
  16. Remove the screwdriver and, if needed, tweak the coil back into position with a pair of tweezers
  17. Replace the coil in the base of the tank and check with an Ohm meter
  18. Attach to a mod and gently pulse the coil to ensure that it glows evenly ONLY IF USING KANTHAL
  19. Wick with organic cotton or rayon 
  20. Screw the top ring back on
  21. Prime the coil
  22. Attach the tank
  23. Vape
Additionally, with the CLR head, the e-liquid can be controlled by screwing the bottom ring upwards decreasing the size of the wick holes.



  • Size: 47*25.5*85.6mm
  • Capacity: 5000mAh
  • Output mode: VT-Ti/VT-Ni/VW Mode
  • Temperature Range: 100-315℃/200-600˚F
  • Output Wattage: 1W-60W
  • Resistance Range: 0.2Ω for CL-Ni head, 0.4Ω for CL-Ti head
  • Color: Racing Yellow, Cool Black, Dazzling White, NEW Matte Black
  • eVic-VT Visual Display:
    • VT-Ti mode/VT-Ni mode/VW
    • Wattages/Voltages
    • Atomizer Resistance
    • Battery power/Puff/Time
I like this device. I like it a lot. Since I am not using coils above 1.0 Ohms, the power surge does not bother me. I don't care whether the temperatures displayed are accurate as long as I get a quality vape while avoiding dry hits and burnt coils. I easily get 3 full days out of a full charge of the 5000 mAh battery.

If this device were lost or destroyed, I would get another - with a newer version of the firmware - and I can easily recommend this kit to anyone.

  •     Finish 10/10 - Stunning looks! Great finish. Beautiful Screen.
  •     Form 9/10 - The device fits my hand and provides a comforting heft. All of the controls (all two of the) are easy to reach and operate. The screen, again, is near perfect. The sleeve should have been color-matched the mod. It IS a compete setup sans e-liquid.
  •     Function 8/10 - Although this device functions fine and I have never had a problem with it, I do wish that it was firmware upgradeable. I feel like Joyetech not only dropped the ball, but lied about dropping the ball and tried to pretend that they still had the ball. I've got to take points off for that... Otherwise
  •     Final - 9/10 A- grade.